If Madame de Pompadour lived these days, what life would she have? It is from this fantasy about the most famous and brilliant lover of the king of France Louis XV that the stylist Sandro Barros builds his collection autumn / winter 2014, baptized Jardin d'hiver. Identified with the rococo style, patroness of literature and decorative arts and fan of architecture and gardening, the marquise transcended her influence beyond the king's bed: she granted audiences at Versailles and often decided the nation's political course. "She was the godmother of Sèvres's porcelain. If I were among us, I would run after the artists, I would go to the art fairs, I would not act like a bib, "says Sandro.
The collection mixes the femininity of the floral motifs with the plastic art world, subjects so dear to the Marquise. "I thought of a collecting woman, eager for news and attending both the grand auctions of Sotheby's and Christie's, as well as Art Basel, Maastricht and the Antiques Shop in Copacabana," says the designer. The campaign, starring Carmelita, was photographed by Pedro Campos in the studio of the plastic artist Antonio Hélio Cabral, in São Paulo. "I've been fascinated by Cabral's work for many years. He is a complete artist, excellent in everything he proposes, from painting to sculpture. He taught me to identify the three-dimensionality of my embroidery, my colors, my materials, from an artistic point of view. "
The collection has a profusion of flowers in prints, embroidery and lace. "I like the image of this flowery environment in an interior of a house, the internal joy that opposes the cold outside, the patience and the attention that a winter garden demands, just as it happens in the couture pieces," says Sandro.
For the first time, much of the collection was built without the rigid structure of the interior of the clothing. The silhouette comes lighter, flowing, comfortable. The pre-fall overalls reappear in the black and white tuxedo version, with silk fringes and richly embroidered. "I bet on shorter, softer, sexier dresses, there are lots of cocktail dresses for the many vernissages of the year." The colors leave the classic repertoire of beges, nudes, blacks and whites; they are yellow, purple, mint and red. Highlight the many embossed zibelines and the three-dimensional tulle with giant roses design.